TRAVELLING
TO MWANZA 03.05.2012
We left
home at 8 am and Kiboi drove Agnes and me to the bus station in Nairobi. Before
the bus leaves it must be filled totally with people so it was not before 9.30
we left for Mwanza. Busses here are not bigger than in Europe but there are two
seats on the left and three on the right. That means that you sit squeezed.
First I sat with the window, it is warm in the bus but while driving there is
draught. There are holes in the window so you can open it, so I put parts of a
handkerchief in the holes, it didn’t help much, and I was freezing. Stupid me
thinks it is always hot in Kenya but get surprised every time that I need to
take more clothes and warm shawls with me. I did not want to catch a cold
again. But sitting in the middle squeezed between Agnes and a man was not quite
comfortable. Sometimes very stupid things turn out to be very handy like an air
pillow that was protecting my back especially when the bus drives over a bump
in the road, and they are many. Every time new passengers enter or alight, you
have to watch your luggage. Before we left many sellers came into the bus with sodas,
biscuits, fruits, white bread etc. Also with stops on the way people come in to
sell. A pastor was preaching and sold bibles, when Agnes did so it stood in the
bible “not for sale”, so it should be free. A man entered selling pills and
toothbrushes with special toothpaste. Then they get off at the next stop. We
drove into the Rift Valley and that is always a stunning experience, so
beautiful that it takes your breath. Just before Narok the bus stopped in the
middle of nowhere and many people got out of the bus and disappeared in the
bushes, so that was the sanitary stop! There was not always a tarmac road but also
sand roads. The nature was stunning, the country is so prosperous. We drove
through a region where they grow tea and many vegetables. The whole agriculture
looked very well kept. The bus was not exactly an express bus; it stopped at
all kind of small places. We had watched on television two days before that the
express bus company Akamba was closed down that day. Agnes was calling with a
cousin who advised her if we should strand at the border. We reached Isibania
at the border 4.30 pm after a 7 hours bus ride. There Agnes found out that the
last bus to Mwanza left half an hour ago. In Tanzania the buses don’t drive in
the dark because of danger. So there we stood and it started raining and all
the people were staring at me as a white person (mzungu). I got bit frustrated
but Agnes remained very calm and was finding out what to do. Here I really
learnt something. Her husband has relatives in that town, so she was asking
people how we could find them. We were told to take a taxi that drove us like
20 steps away to a restaurant that is owned by the cousin. We had supper there
and the cousin drove us to his parents. We were offered oranges and tea.
the sitting
room
They
thought that a mzungu should stay in a hotel and not in the house because they
are much more demanding. So they drove us to a lodge and were so nice to pay
for our stay. I show a picture of the bathroom. It was very clean, but you see
wings of a kind of beetles on the floor. They often come to the light when it
is raining (do you remember Tina and Odilia!!!). They are not dangerous at all
but they are many and are all over the place. Their wings fall of easily. The
toilet is a hole in the floor and you could even flush this one.
The next
morning we were invited to breakfast at 6.30 am and got fetched again. After a
nice breakfast they asked us to come again on the way back, and this mzungu
could stay in the house! The cousin and a friend Wangari drove us to the border
and there they were asked to pay ksh 400 to pass, this is bribing! He got it
down to 100. It was quite a distance to the Tanzanian bus, so it is not that
you alight from the bus on one side and can enter another at the other side. We
were very grateful for this kind service. The bus stopped in the nearest town
and there again we had to wait till the bus was full. Many people tried to sell
their merchandise that they were wearing on the head. There was even a man with
a pile of socks on his head!
It took
another 4 hours to arrive in Mwanza where several women were surprising us by
welcoming us with a strange lalalalala, hugging us all and taking our luggage
we were so keen on. We were taken into a car driven by a woman with a burka, I
felt not quite safe I must admit. We arrived safely with Lydia’s home driving
on a road that seems to me impossible to drive on. Waters coming down from the
hills had made big holes in the road; well you could not call it a road
actually. Later it should turn out to be a fatal road for me.
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